I've spent years walking into the restaurants most people walk past. Places with faded facades, handwritten menus, and an old person cooking one thing with total focus. Then I discovered Japan's Dirty Michelin, and found out there's actually a name for what I'd been doing.

Most first-timers feel awkward at a Japanese onsen. They're not sure what to do, where to look, or whether they're doing it right. This guide fixes that, and points you towards some of the best onsen in Japan while it's at it.