Shanghai’s Everyday Magic
Shanghai Through Our Eyes - Part 3
China has been a major world power for millennia, leaving an indelible mark on the world, starting all the way back with the invention of things like printing and gunpowder. There's even debate over whether or not Italian pasta originated in China. When you come to China there’s a vast amount of history and culture to unpack and it can be hard to find a starting point.
You could visit museums and heritage sites, but some of the best ways to understand Shanghai’s local culture are hiding in plain sight: in the parks, the markets, and the street corners of everyday life.
Rather than just looking for great places to eat and cool things to see, we want you to find something that piques your interest and then dive deeper. From Chinese fashion to traditional textiles, from the heritage ceramics of Jingdezhen to modern jewellery, or from kung fu to movie production on a scale you've never seen before, there's a million topics to choose from. Once you’ve got something, you’ll find so many things to do in Shanghai and around China to learn more. Much like we did for Tokyo, we've chosen two of our own which you can experience every day without needing to do too much of a deep dive: people watching and shopping.
Community Spirit: People Watching in Shanghai
Minsky
Head to any park or plaza in China before 8am and you’re going to find a bunch of old people doing tai chi and exercising. Come a bit later in the day or on the weekend and you’ll find them singing, playing instruments, gambling, or just hanging out with friends. Around sunset is when the dancing and badminton start. Parks and plazas across China are one of the best examples of how to live a vibrant life into your old age, something China excels at.
When you’re around Shanghai you will find this phenomenon whether you try or not. In case you want to seek it out, a great place for it is somewhere you’re probably already planning to go: The Bund. It’s a big place, but chances are if you go around sunset you’ll see plenty of dancing aunties along the riverfront walk, with the Shanghai skyline lighting up behind them. Since you’re in the area, stop by Hotel Indigo’s Char Bar for a drink. This is my favourite Bund view in the city. It’s a little further south than most and it faces north, so you don’t just get skyline views, you get views all the way to People’s Square.
Back in the French Concession, Xiangyang Park is an excellent place to see dancing aunties and exercising uncles any time of day. It’s also right in the middle of the action in the French Concession, so it's an easy place to stop by and spend some time people watching while you’re out for your morning coffee at Egg (a top rec from Beth). On the weekends, I’d recommend heading down to Xujiahui Park. It’s a corner of the French Concession you might not go to otherwise, but the park is wonderfully landscaped and filled with life on the weekends. And it’s close to Nanjing Tangbao, our collective favourite for xiaolongbao, so make sure to stop in for a snack.
If you’re an early bird, then you’ll find plenty of aunties and uncles doing tai chi, stretching, and maybe even practising kung fu. One of the best morning spots in town is Jing’an Park, right across from Jing’an Temple. Getting there early will allow you to enjoy the park and temple views before the crowds descend and rush hour hits. A little later in the day you can also head up to the 5th floor of Reel Mall next door and find Rat Tar Art Bar. This cafe and bar has an outdoor patio with fantastic views of Jing’an Temple across the street. If the patio is open (it isn’t always), you can usually just head on out for the views without having to make a purchase.
One last tip: If you’re out people watching, don’t be afraid to join in! Everyone will love it.
Creative Endeavours: Shopping in Shanghai
Beth
With all of the influences that have come in and out of China over the centuries,there’s a lot of innovation and creativity that comes along with that. It’s spurred on these days by the poor job market, which is leading a lot of youth to innovate and come up with ways to work for themselves or dive into their personal passions. You can find all kinds of creative people making incredible things across China, and seeking them out will lead to some excellent Shanghai souvenirs.
When most people think of shopping for souvenirs in Shanghai, one of the first places that comes to mind is Yuyuan Bazaar. While it’s historically important and has amazing architecture, it is very much a tourist trap. We’d recommend you skip it. Instead, head to Tianzifang, a neighbourhood of small alleyways that’s constantly bustling and filled with bars, restaurants and dozens of boutiques. You’ve also got plenty of overpriced, touristy souvenirs here, but for those with a discerning eye you can find some great stuff. I still have my enamel mug with propaganda imagery and slogans on it, which you can find in a lot of the souvenir shops. And look out for the White Rabbit (大白兔) candy store, one of Shanghai’s most iconic treats.
For something a bit more modern, check out Feiyue shoes. This classic Shanghai brand started out making cloth shoes around a hundred years ago, and over the last few years have found their way around the world, including into high-end shops like Nordstroms. You can find a few shops around town, but one of the most central ones is on Wulumuqi Road in the French Concession. Another favourite brand is Spin Ceramics. They've moved well out of the city thanks to Shanghai's rising rents, but it's worth placing an order online or making a visit if you have time. The company is based in Jingdezhen, famous as the birthplace of ceramics, and they've taken hundreds of years of experience and craftsmanship to create modern, beautiful pieces for the home at surprisingly affordable prices. Minsky took me here on my first visit and I went back every time I was back, (I've got a couple of little dim sum ceramics sitting in my apartment in the cutest little steamer). If you're in Beijing, they've also got a shop near 798 Art Zone.
But by far my favourite place to buy things in China is the Propaganda Poster Art Centre. We all know I love a niche museum. The museum itself is fascinating and full of amazing historical pieces. But best of all, you can buy replicas and some originals of almost everything before heading home. It can be a bit hard to find. It used to be in the basement of an apartment building, and now it’s moved into a non-descript office building, but rest assured this is one of the best things you will do in Shanghai.
Shanghai's not a city that gives everything up at first glance. The good stuff is in the details. It’s the uncle practising his erhu in the park and the twenty-something trying to create her art that make this city and country shine. These are the things you'll remember long after the Bund views fade, and honestly, they make for much more interesting photos and stories to tell people when you get home.